Hermès Lumières Brutes Gemstone Crystal Ring

December 26, 2022
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Hermès introduced this eye-catching ring set with raw crystals in its 2022 new High Jewelry collection, “Les Jeux de l’Ombre”. The inspiration comes from the shapes and colors projected when a beam of light passes through a mineral crystal. The designer boldly used three uncut natural gemstone crystals as the centerpieces and paved the projection with diamonds and colored gemstone melee. The name “Lumières Brutes” is French for “Raw Lights.”
This piece was personally designed by Hermès Jewelry Creative Director Pierre Hardy. During a meeting with a gem cutter, Pierre Hardy shined a flashlight through diamonds and tourmalines, and each gemstone projected a unique shape. This fascinating experience inspired the creation – to capture the form of light “filtered” through mineral crystals.

Pierre Hardy selected a spessartite garnet crystal as the central stone, showcasing a vibrant orange-red hue and specially retaining its natural dodecahedron crystal form. The entire ring top is designed with an elongated hexagonal outline, mimicking the shape of light projected through the spessartite master crystal. The surface is asymmetrically paved with spessartite garnet, pyrope garnet, yellow diamonds, brown diamonds, and colorless diamonds, creating a natural color gradient.

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Fidel is the founder and editor-in-chief of Luxury Wrist Club. With over a decade of experience in haute horlogerie and fine jewelry, he specializes in technical watchmaking, gemstone appraisal, and luxury market trends. His work has been featured in leading industry publications, and he is a regular speaker at international watch and jewelry summits.

Based in Europe, Fidel combines deep technical knowledge with a collector's eye for detail. He believes that true luxury is not just about possession — it's about understanding the craftsmanship, heritage, and artistry behind every masterpiece.

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