Van Cleef & Arpels: The Ark’s Legendary Licorne Brooch

March 10, 2026
2 mins read
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Van Cleef & Arpels L'Arche de Noé Unicorn Brooch with detailed gemstone setting
Close-up of the Van Cleef & Arpels 'Licorne' unicorn brooch from the L'Arche de Noé collection, showcasing its intricate design
Detailed view of the Van Cleef & Arpels unicorn brooch, highlighting sapphire hidden-setting and diamond details
Side profile of the Van Cleef & Arpels L'Arche de Noé Unicorn Brooch, showing its dynamic posture and precious materials

A majestic unicorn brooch from Van Cleef & Arpels’ L’Arche de Noé collection, exquisitely adorned with diamonds, sapphires, a marquise-cut emerald eye, and turquoise hooves.

Introducing Van Cleef & Arpels’ L’Arche de Noé High Jewelry Collection

In 2016, Van Cleef & Arpels captivated the world of haute joaillerie with the launch of its enchanting “L’Arche de Noé” (Noah’s Ark) collection. This extraordinary high jewelry series brought to life a menagerie of mythical and real creatures, each meticulously crafted to showcase the Maison’s legendary artistry and storytelling prowess.

Among the collection’s most iconic and whimsical pieces is the unicorn brooch, a symbol of purity and grace. It depicts the majestic creature in a dynamic, forward-stepping gesture, subtly looking back with an air of ethereal elegance. The designers ingeniously combined brilliant diamond layouts with exquisite sapphire hidden settings, forming a vibrant and three-dimensional sculpture that truly brings this legendary beast to life.

The Enduring Legacy of the Unicorn at Van Cleef & Arpels

The mystical unicorn is not a new muse for Van Cleef & Arpels; its enchanting form first graced the Maison’s jewelry creations in the 1940s. These early pieces often featured leaping unicorns, intricately sculpted from gold and adorned with delicate ruby beads tracing their backs, capturing a sense of fantastical movement.

The “L’Arche de Noé” unicorn brooch proudly carries forward this rich heritage, reinterpreting the beloved theme with contemporary sophistication and unparalleled craftsmanship. It stands as a testament to Van Cleef & Arpels’ ability to blend historic inspiration with innovative design, ensuring the unicorn’s magic continues to inspire.

Exquisite Craftsmanship: A Closer Look at the Unicorn Brooch

The 2016 unicorn brooch is a tour de force of high jewelry, demonstrating a profound understanding of precious materials and intricate setting techniques. Every facet of its design has been carefully considered to evoke the creature’s mythical beauty and grace.

Masterful Gemstone Setting Techniques

The brooch showcases Van Cleef & Arpels’ unparalleled skill in gem placement and their signature Mystery Set™ technique, creating a seamless and lustrous finish:

  • Sapphire Hidden Setting: The unicorn’s back and flowing mane are entirely composed of sapphires, meticulously set using the renowned hidden-setting technique. This advanced method conceals the metal prongs, allowing the sapphires to form a continuous, naturally undulating arc. To achieve this fluid contour, each sapphire is individually customized and cut to precise shapes, ensuring an impeccable fit.
  • Diamond Arrangement: The creature’s elegant neck and powerful legs are adorned with round diamonds, expertly arranged to highlight the sapphires’ rich color and add a captivating sparkle to the design.
  • Spiral Horn Embellishment: The unicorn’s iconic horn features a mesmerizing spiral track inlaid with diamonds. These diamonds are thoughtfully arranged in descending order of size, creating an exquisite tapering effect that emphasizes the horn’s delicate refinement.

Distinctive Features and Materials

Beyond the primary settings, specific material choices and design elements enhance the unicorn brooch’s unique charm:

  • Emerald Eye: The unicorn’s gaze is brought to life by a single, brilliant marquise-cut emerald, serving as its expressive and captivating eye.
  • Turquoise Hooves: Its hooves are elegantly inlaid with cabochon turquoise. This choice introduces a subtle, serene color and a smooth, polished texture that beautifully contrasts with the brooch’s faceted gemstones.
  • Layered Tail Design: The flowing ponytail is a triumph of intricate design, featuring an alternating inlay of diamonds and sapphires. This thoughtful layering creates a dynamic sense of movement and volume, adding to the brooch’s opulent detail.

The Van Cleef & Arpels “L’Arche de Noé” unicorn brooch is more than a piece of jewelry; it is a radiant sculpture, a testament to the Maison’s artistic vision, and a timeless symbol of ethereal beauty in high jewelry.

Fidel is the founder and editor-in-chief of Luxury Wrist Club. With over a decade of experience in haute horlogerie and fine jewelry, he specializes in technical watchmaking, gemstone appraisal, and luxury market trends. His work has been featured in leading industry publications, and he is a regular speaker at international watch and jewelry summits.

Based in Europe, Fidel combines deep technical knowledge with a collector's eye for detail. He believes that true luxury is not just about possession — it's about understanding the craftsmanship, heritage, and artistry behind every masterpiece.

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