Hermès Chaînes d’Ombre Jewelry Set

January 30, 2023
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Hermès introduced this “Chaînes d’Ombre” jewelry set in its 2022 new high jewelry collection “Les Jeux de l’Ombre.” Inspired by the poetic interplay of “light and shadow,” the designer uses brilliant diamonds to interpret light and dark-colored gemstones to capture shadows. The name of the piece translates from French as “Chain of Shadows.”

This collection centers around Hermès’ signature design element—the “anchor chain”—infusing the simple graphic with rich layers:

  • The main body of the anchor chain is crafted in white gold and set with bright round-cut diamonds, creating a sparkling radiance.

  • The shadow of the chain is made from black-coated material, paved with sapphires and black spinels, presenting a natural dark gradient that contrasts sharply with the diamonds.

To create a spatial sense of light and shadow, the designer intentionally “enlarged” the shadow, placing it beneath the chain to achieve remarkable three-dimensionality. The arrangement of each chain link is meticulously planned, with the shadow pattern slightly tilted to create a naturally diverging trompe-l’œil effect.

The complete set consists of three pieces:

  • The “Chaînes d’Ombre” necklace is composed of 30 gradually sized interlocking chain links, full of elegant rhythm.

  • The ring features two overlapping black and white anchor chains, highlighting the contrast between light and shadow.

  • The brooch presents an even more exaggerated proportion of shadow, particularly suited for outfits with distinctive, creative flair.

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Fidel is the founder and editor-in-chief of Luxury Wrist Club. With over a decade of experience in haute horlogerie and fine jewelry, he specializes in technical watchmaking, gemstone appraisal, and luxury market trends. His work has been featured in leading industry publications, and he is a regular speaker at international watch and jewelry summits.

Based in Europe, Fidel combines deep technical knowledge with a collector's eye for detail. He believes that true luxury is not just about possession — it's about understanding the craftsmanship, heritage, and artistry behind every masterpiece.

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