The 42 mm case, crafted in 18 K rose gold, measures only 9.43 mm thick and features a refined alternation of polished and satin-brushed finishes. A transparent sapphire “porthole” on the case flank at 9 o’clock offers a unique side view of the movement’s intricate architecture and operation.
The open-worked dial continues Ferdinand Berthoud’s tradition of visual depth and horological artistry: the barrel sits at 12 o’clock, a power-reserve indicator at 2 o’clock, and an openworked small-seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The escapement at 9 o’clock—equipped for the first time with a cylindrical hairspring—commands attention. This rare component provides far greater precision and isochronism than a conventional flat hairspring, though it requires an exceptional degree of skill and time to produce. Each cylindrical hairspring must be individually shaped and adjusted by hand, with its terminal curves meticulously tuned under magnification.
Powering the watch is the FB-SPC hand-wound movement, beating at 21,600 vph and delivering a 72-hour power reserve. Comprising 230 components, the movement alone requires more than 100 hours of polishing and finishing. The bridges feature a sandblasted and rhodium-plated dark-grey finish, exemplifying Ferdinand Berthoud’s uncompromising level of craftsmanship.
Fitted with an alligator leather strap, the retail price is CHF 140,000.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC Cylindrical Hairspring Watch
Case: 18 K rose gold, 42.3 mm × 9.43 mm,Crown: 18 K rose gold,Crystal: Sapphire,Dial: Rhodium-plated, open-worked,Hands: 18 K rose gold,Movement: FB-SPC hand-wound, 47 jewels, 21,600 vph, 72-hour power reserve,Strap: Alligator leather, pin buckle,Water resistance: 30 m.
