Arnold & Son DBG Equation GMT Watch

Arnold & Son (亚诺) has long been renowned for its intricate and innovative dial designs, and this year’s DBG Equation GMT continues this tradition with an exceptional dual dial structure. The two time zone dials are not only independently driven by their own gears, but they also each have separate barrel systems, escapements, and winding mechanisms.

A double barrel, double escapement system was originally employed in pocket watches in the early 20th century, but due to its complexity, it has rarely been used in wristwatches in recent years. The DBG Equation GMT revives this complicated system, allowing for independent operation of two time zones with separate winding and adjustment crowns. This approach eliminates the difficulty that many users face when trying to adjust complex dual-time zone watches.

At the 12 o’clock position, there is a small secondary dial that shows the time difference between the two time zones—an idea that reminds us of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Heure two-time zone model, but expressed with a completely different design philosophy.

Looking through the semi-skeletonized dial, you can observe the balance wheel’s movement and the hand-finished decoration, with the balance wheel bridge cleverly arranged in a staggered fashion, subtly hinting at the never-ending motion of the movement. The two time zone dials are independently wound and adjusted via separate crowns, making the watch both more practical and convenient—an important feature for those who find adjusting dual-time zone watches complicated.

There are two versions of the case—stainless steel and 18K rose gold. While both are impressive, the rose gold version stands out for its elegant pairing with blue steel hands, which we personally find more aesthetically pleasing.

Arnold & Son DBG Equation GMT Watch