Hemmerle Infused Jewels Collection Jewelry

October 10, 2022
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German jeweler Hemmerle introduced this set of brooches and ear pendants in its 2022 “Infused Jewels” High Jewelry collection. The designs draw inspiration from the culture of “tea drinking,” with each piece representing a specific tea ingredient, such as orange blossom, cinnamon, ginger flower, rosemary, and strawberry, offering a refreshing sensory experience.

Hemmerle excels at trompe-l’œil-style expression. In this collection, “anodized aluminum” is used as the primary material, meticulously electroplated to faithfully reproduce the natural colors and unique textures of each plant. You can observe the pink-to-white gradient on ginger flower petals, the vibrant emerald green of strawberry leaves, and the slightly rough texture of orange blossom stems.

The gemstone selection for this series is particularly ingenious, featuring large pearls, fancy color diamonds, tanzanite, and more. It is worth noting that Hemmerle continues its signature technique of reverse-setting gemstones as a unique detail. For instance, in the Strawberry ear pendantsdemantoid garnets are set upside down within the strawberry’s pores, resembling three-dimensional seeds and creating a striking visual impact.

Also noteworthy is the use of novel and special materials. For the Cinnamon brooch, Hemmerle initially considered using bronze to mimic cinnamon’s rough surface. After months of research, they ultimately decided to use treated natural cinnamon. A deep brown diamond is set between the cinnamon sticks, held by four delicate copper prongs, creating a captivating juxtaposition of rustic and luxurious elements.

The Orange Blossom brooch resulted from a collaboration between Hemmerle and the German porcelain manufacturer Porzellan Manufaktur Nymphenburg. Pure white biscuit porcelain is used to craft the blooming petals, unopened buds, and slender filaments. A warm golden pearl sits at the flower’s heart, complemented by leaves densely set with demantoid garnets, imbuing the piece with natural vitality.

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